Thursday 5 June 2014

April 2014: The Quarter Acre, Manakau

27 April 2014: Quarter Acre Manakau

Wine no 1: 
Black Estate Riesling 2012

Great information from the Estate: 
Still a baby, it is full-bodied, with strong, lemony, slightly spicy flavours, hints of honey and marmalade, and a crisp, tightly structured finish. Showing good intensity and plenty of personality, it should be at its best 2015+. Michael Cooper MW

The wine is... immediately appealing on the nose displaying mandarin, apple, peach and flinty aromas, leading to a juicy palate that's elegant and vibrant with a hint of sweetness and racy acidity. It's flavoursome, well structured and superbly long on the finish. At its best: now to 2020..
Sam Kim for Wine Orbit

Flavour-some Riesling with a mix of mineral and citrus with riper tree fruit/apricot characters. Good intensity, purity and length. Classy wine with development potential.
Bob Campbell MW

An elegantly concentrated and soft-textured dry Riesling with complex minerally interest. Serve as an aperitif and with seafood over the next 4 to 5+ years. Raymond Chan

Vineyard: Fruit for this Black Estate Riesling is sourced from our Spye Omihi Vineyard in the north of Waipara Valley, North Canterbury. This hillside vineyard was planted in 1999 on clay and limestone rich soils. These soils are very dense brown to orange in colour and inter bedded with sandstones and subordinate limestone horizons. This 2 hectare hillside vineyard has a vine density of more than 5000 vine per hectare.


Season: A cool growing season with intermittent rain events allowed healthy canopy growth and long slow ripening. Mild temperatures held through autumn and allowed the grapes for this wine to be harvested at the desired ripeness. The flexibility of our picking crews meant that we were able to undertake several picks over a three week period. This ensured that the hand selected fruit reached optimum ripeness.

 Hand harvested April 19- May 8 2012

Harvest 11.5 Tons Yield 1.4 kg/ vine Brix 21.0-25.5o TA 9.45g/L pH 3.05

 Fermentation: Whole bunch pressed with no settling. Fermented wild for two months between 12- and 18 degrees centigrade in stainless steel tanks. The tanks were then moved outside the winery where the wine matured on lees in stainless steel tanks through winter. Blended in spring bottled in summer.

   

A family owned vineyard on the warm, sunny slopes of the Waipara Valley, where the vines grow through clay and limestone soils to produce intense wines completely expressive of this site.

The wines are hand crafted using artisan techniques and a dedication to creating exceptional Waipara Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.

Black Estate Vineyard in the Waipara Valley

Waipara has a long and dry autumn, ideal for ripening fruit. The cool nights retain freshness, whilst warm days build concentration. The vineyard is carefully handled through the change of each season by Vineyard Manager Alistair Blair. Alistair is eagerly assisted by the rest of the family who almost always do exactly as they are told. A detailed focus is on thoughtful winter pruning, maximising soil health and restricting yields using sustainable practices.

Wine no 2: Black Estate Omihi Chardonnay 2013


Label of the 2011

Prepared from the Mendoza Chardonnay grape, Omihi Series Chardonnay has been described as some of the finest in the region. Complex and integrated bouquet of white floral, grapefruit, lemon honey, brioche and hazelnut. Mealy, with fresh mineral notes like sea spray. The palate is broad, and enveloping with saline minerality that carries, persists and freshens giving this wine a dense and complete structure

Since the Naish family purchased the Black Estate in 2007, the quality and consistency of the wines has taken a leap forward. The home vineyard, planted in 1993 is 8 ha, planted equally to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the Riesling fruit contracted) is providing exciting wines. This is the tenth release of a Chardonnay under the Black Estate label, from 16 y.o. Mendoza vines, and the maturity of the plants is reckoned to provide the extra depth. Winemaker Nicholas Brown is certainly especially adept with the fruit. - Ray Chan

Wine no 3: Chateau Mont-Redon Cotes du Rhone Reserve 2012

Mont-Redon produces wines in three appellations in the southern Rhône valley: Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac and Côtes du Rhône. Thirteen grape varieties (white and red) can be used to make a Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine.  The Lirac and Côtes du Rhône are made with two, three or four varieties. Grenache (red or white) is the predominant grape in all blends.


Situated on the left bank of the Rhône between Orange and Avignon, the Mont-Redon vineyards feature large, rounded stones known locally as galets. These stones retain some of the intense daytime heat of the southern sun and then slowly disperse it to the vines during the night. The Mistral wind blows away any humidity, ensuring excellent climatic conditions for the cultivation of vines. The grapes are handpicked and destemmed, followed by maceration to achieve good tannic structure. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is matured in vats and oak barrels until bottling.

Aromas and flavors of dark berries, raspberries and spice lead to a full, succulent palate with balanced, approachable tannins.
Foos pairing: Pair with herbed, grilled meats or aged cheeses.
A Côtes du Rhône that offers particularly fine structure as well as lush fruit





The Rhone Valley is a key wine-producing region in the south-east of France. It follows the north–south course of the Rhone river for almost 150 miles (240km) from Lyon to the Rhone Delta (the Bouches-du-Rhône), near the Mediterranean coast.

The length of the valley means that Rhone wines are the product of a wide variety of soil types and mesoclimates. The region's wine-producing areas cover such a distance that there is a widely accepted division between its northern and southern parts. Rather neatly, they are separated by a gap of 25 miles (40 km) between the towns of Valance and Montelimar, in which almost no vines are grown.

This division is reflected not only in geography and preferred grape varieties, but also in the quality and quantity of wines produced. The smaller, more quality-driven northern section focuses almost entirely on Syrah for red wines and Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne for whites, while the larger and more prolific south employs a much longer list of varieties. The most notable of these are the red varieties Grenache and Mourvedre, which are combined with Syrah to produce the 'GSM' blend so characteristic of the southern Rhone. While the granite-blessed slopes of the north are paired with a continental climate, the rocky, sandy soils of the flatter south enjoy the warmer winters of a Mediterranean climate.

Prestige is also a key differentiator between the northern and southern areas of the Rhone. The north boasts old and highly respected names, such as Hermitage and Cote Rotie, but it accounts for only 5% of the valley's total wine production. The remaining 95% is made in the south under less-prestigious, less-specific names. The south is not entirely lacking in prestige, however, as it is here that the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation is located.

One important, unifying constant between the two areas is the regional Cotes du Rhone appellation, which can be claimed by red, rosé and white wines from all over the valley. This title covers 171 communes over the 125 miles (200km) between Vienne in the north and Avignon in the south – the towns that mark the beginning and end of the main valley. These wines are still subject to the rules and regulations of the appellation laws, but do not match up to the quality required from more location-specific titles such as Saint-Joseph or Gigondas. 

Chateau Mont-Redon

The appellation Cotes du Rhone Villages is restricted to specific villages whose terroir produces wine of a slightly higher quality. By chance, they are clustered in the southern section of the Rhone valley, around the town of Orange. An elected sub-set of about 20 (this list changes over time) are permitted to add their village names to the title Cotes du Rhone Villages, producing some interesting, long-winded names such as Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint-Maurice-sur-Eygues.



March 2014: Waimea Cafe Restaurant

March 2014: Waimea Cafe Restaurant, Waikanae

Ok, so we're back after too long an absence, catch-up blog for the last 3 months. I don't have all the menus, so instead of focusing on the restaurants and food, I've focused more on the wines, with some general tasting and appreciation notes thrown in on each wine:

Wine no 1: Brookfields Robertson Pinot Gris 2013



Peter Robertson spent a lifetime honing an Alsatian sensibility, producing this little gem well before Madame Gris became so fashionable. With its vivacious, dry, aromatic palate and lively acidity, this is lighter and more floral than its Alsace counterparts. Awarded 95/100 by Decanter.

Brookfields is Hawkes' Bay's oldest boutique winery, founded in 1937. The winemaker, Petewr Robertson, bought Brookfields in 1977, and has developed the winery over time with modern technology but has retained the traditional wine making methods. He has created classic wines with grapes only grown is specific locations and to his strict growing policy. Brookfields' reputation has been built on stunning red wines.

Pinot Gris is a white-wine grape originally from the vineyards of Burgundy, but now found in wine regions all over the world. When produced in the pale, light style popularized in late 20th-Century Italy, the variety and its wines are typically referred to by the Italian name Pinot Grigio.


One of the more famous members of the extended Pinot family of grape varieties, Pinot Gris is a pink-skinned mutation of Pinot Noir. The two varieties are indistinguishable in the vineyard right up until veraison, when Pinot Gris berries take on their distinctive array of colors; anything from orange-pink to pale, dusty purple. The adjective gris is French for 'gray', and refers to the dusty, light-gray sheen the grapes often take on. Although possibly confusing to English speakers, this convention is widely used in Europe, notably in Italian (grigio), German (grauer), Slovenian (sivi) and Czech (sede).

Although sometimes used as a blending component, Pinot Gris is most commonly produced as a varietal wine. Flavours and aromas vary greatly from region to region, and from style to style, but commonly feature notes of pears, apples, stone fruit, sweet spices and even a hint of smoke or wet wool. Most winemakers avoid obvious oak character in their Pinot Gris, but some use older barrels (which leave less oak flavor in the wine) for fermentation. For weightier, more complex styles of Pinot Gris, lees contact and partial malolactic fermentation are commonly used. Sweet late harvest versions wines are common.


Pinot Gris grapes are naturally low in acidity and high in sugars, so the finest Pinot Gris wines come from the world's cooler viticultural regions; those from warmer climates tend to lack acidity and structure and can be overbearingly alcoholic. Europe's showcase examples come from vineyards on either side of the Rhine river, from Baden and Pfalz in Germany and particularly Alsace in France. In these regions, the wines are made in varying levels of sweetness, from bone dry to lusciously sweet; a Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles from Alsace is one of the sweetest, most intensely flavored wines on Earth.

Of the 'New World' wine regions, the variety is doing well in the United States (most notably Oregon but also Washington and California) and New Zealand. New World producers have recognized and respected the distinction between the Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio styles, and typically label their wines accordingly (lighter, drier versions as Pinot Grigio, while sweeter or richer styles as Pinot Gris).

Pinot Gris Wine Tasting:

The primary fruit flavors in Pinot Gris are lime, lemon, pear, white nectarine and apple. Depending on where the grapes are grown, Pinot Grigio can take on faint honeyed notes; floral aromas like honeysuckle; and a saline-like minerality. Pinot Gris doesn’t have a strikingly unique flavor the way Moscato or Riesling do, but it does offer a refreshing twinkle of acidity and a weighty feeling on the middle of your tongue – like licking wax paper.

Pinot Grigio Wine Taste

Stump the Sommelier: Pinot Gris is a commonly feared grape variety in Sommelier Blind-Tasting Exams. Many wine experts identify Pinot Gris through the characteristics it doesn’t have.

Italian Pinot Grigio Usually totally dry with brilliant acidity with a bitter almond note
French Pinot Gris Fleshy and more unctuous with faint honey notes from botrytis
American Pinot Grigio Often with more exaggerated fruit flavors and with less acidity than European counterparts
Where would you place the NZ offerings?


Wine 2: Te Mata Elston Chardonnay 2012

Te Mata Estate Elston Chardonnay 2012 

Te Mata Estate is New Zealand's oldest winery, dating from the early 1890's. It is a New Zealand family owned winery – a true estate, specialising in grape growing and winemaking from its nine Hawke's Bay vineyards. It is acknowledged as one of only five icon wineries in New Zealand. 

Under the direction of John Buck, Te Mata Estate has, over nearly thirty years, produced a stunning array of red and white wines including such famous labels as Coleraine and Awatea Cabernets/ Merlots, Bullnose Syrah, Elston Chardonnay, Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc and launched in 2009 Zara Viognier.

Not content to rest on its laurels, Te Mata Estate has also developed a unique single vineyard from which it produces its five Woodthorpe wines.


Elston ’12 has a brilliant, pale lemon colour, with inviting aromas of golden grapefruit, toasted brioche, brazil nuts and popcorn. The palate shows an immediate characters of ripe nectarine and nougat, together with both the sweetness and acidity of fresh pineapple that contribute to its long, fine finish.
The separate parcels of fully ripe grapes were hand harvested from individual plots within
Te Mata Estate’s vineyards between 25 and 29 March 2012.Each parcel was gently whole-cluster pressed, cold settled and racked to new and seasoned French oak barrels for fermentation. The resulting wines remained in contact with their yeast lees while undergoing malolactic fermentation. The finest lots were selected for further maturation, spending a total of ten months in barrel. The finished wine was bottled in March 2013.
Elston ‘12 is bottled with leading technology ‘DIAM’ corks. These are produced using a liquid form of carbon dioxide which eliminates any possibility of cork taint and, when the wine is well cellared, they provide consistent evolution for every bottle. Elston ’12 will continue to develop in bottle for five years from harvest.

Winemaker Profile
One of New Zealand 's leading winemakers, Peter is a key figure in the development of Te Mata Estate's culture of wine excellence. Peter developed his interest in wine through restaurant work while a student. He completed a Bachelor of Science (Chemistry) degree at Auckland University and then the Graduate Diploma in Wine from Roseworthy College, near Adelaide. He was awarded the inaugural Hazelgrove Scholarship which involved microbiology research projects at the Australian Wine Research Institute.
After a vintage at the Rouge Homme Winery in Coonawarra, under John Vickery, Peter returned to New Zealand. Peter commenced work at Te Mata Estate in 1984 as the sole winemaker and has, over more than 20 years, overseen the creation of Te Mata's range of quality wines to the point that he is now responsible for all aspects of Te Mata's wine production, from vine to bottle. He is now Te Mata Estate's Technical Director.



Two Major Styles of Chardonnay:

If you like the idea of butter in your glass, you’ll love the classic style of oak-aged Chardonnay wine. On the other hand, if words like “Pinot Grigio” make you feel woozy with love, then your perfect Chardonnay is the unoaked kind. How can a single grape offer such a variety of flavours? Well, in addition to the difference in wine making (oak vs. no oak), ripeness has a lot to do with flavor.
Flavors in Chardonnay by ripeness
A Note About Ripeness and Chardonnay Wine
A very ripe Chardonnay will have flavors more towards tropical fruits like pineapple, guava and mango. A barely ripe Chardonnay will have green apple and lemon flavors.


Chardonnay wine in a Glass and a bunch of Chardonnay grapes

Chardonnay Wine Taste Profile

FRUIT FLAVORS (berries, fruit, citrus)
Lemon, Apple, Pear, Pineapple, Jackfruit, Passionfruit, Peach, Fig
OTHER (herb, spice, flower, mineral, earth, other)
Apple Blossom, Lemon Zest, Citrus Peel, Celery leaf, Beeswax, Lemon balm, Honeysuckle, Wet flint rocks, Saline Solution, Vanilla Bean, Almond, Jasmine
OAK FLAVORS (flavors added with oak aging)
Vanilla, Baked Tart, Butter, Pie Crust, Caramelized Sugar, Creme Brulee, Dill, Coconut, Praline
CHARDONNAY SERVING TEMPERATURE
Unoaked: 48 ºF (9 ºC)
Oaked: 54 ºF (12 ºC)
ACIDITY
Medium Low (oaked warm climate) – Medium High (unoaked cool climate)
SIMILAR VARIETIES
Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Semillon, Fiano (Italy), Antão Vaz (Portugal)
 Why do some Chardonnays taste creamy?
The smell of vanilla, butter, coconut and dill are all attributes of oak-aging. However, the texture that some Chardonnays have that can be described as Oily, Creamy, Smooth or Waxy are from a special kind of fermentation.
 What is Malolactic Fermentation?
After the wine is fermented, an additional fermentation called Malolactic Fermentation (MLF) will give wine an oily texture. MLF turns tart malic acid (the acid in apples) to smooth lactic acid (the acid in milk). A malolactic fermentation involves a different kind of yeast that gobbles up malic acid and poops out lactic acid. If you want a rounder, more creamy-feeling wine, look for wines that have gone through MLF.


Wine 3: Penfolds Bin 138 2012


Tasting Notes


Region:
Barossa Valley
Drink Until:Peak drinking 2015-2025
Varieties: 66% Shiraz, 23% Grenache, 11% Mataro
Alcohol:14.5%
Foods:
Oak:12 months in seasoned American oak hogsheads
Colour:Dense magenta
Nose:In no way bashful, aromatics leap from glass. Savoury and Rhonish - think pan jus and cinnamon. All the reds are here - Raspberry, red liquorice, dark red berried-fruits, red jelly-bean aromas.
Palate:Medium to full-bodied. Substantial and structually verging on viscous during this youthful developmental phase. Yet to completely unfurl so there's just a suggestion of kirsch, maraschino and fruitcake mix. White chocolate and mocha flavours merge with softened rounded tannins.